The European Green Deal is a set of measures designed to make the European Union sustainable and carbon-neutral by 2050. Since its launch in December 2019, the European authorities have put in place a roadmap that defines 8 strategic axes with precise objectives accompanied by legislative proposals. To achieve these objectives, the European Commission is working on drafting directives, which must then be adopted by Parliament and incorporated into member countries’ legislation.
Of the 8 strategic axes defined by the EU, 3 have a direct impact on regulations for the cosmetics sector: the Strategy for Sustainable Chemicals (CSS), the New Chemicals Action Plan (CEAP) and the Biodiversity Strategy. A fourth axis should be taken into account, even if its impact on cosmetics is indirect: the Energy Strategy. In this article, Alcimed deciphers the changes brought about by the Green Deal, which concern all stages of product design, manufacture and distribution.
This axis aims to achieve a world free of substances that are toxic to human health or the environment. To this end, the EU wishes to regulate products from the design stage, rather than controlling them once they are on the market. Regulatory developments in line with the Green Deal include the following:
After an initial eco-design directive adopted in 2019, the Green Deal has given birth to the CEAP and, within this framework, the proposal for a new Eco-design for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) in March 2022. One of the European Commission’s objectives is to improve product traceability, giving consumers all the information they need to choose their product. To this end, the notion of a “product passport” has been introduced by a European directive. A packaging directive has also been adopted, encouraging manufacturers to produce reusable packaging. Finally, a directive aimed at protecting consumers from greenwashing (misleading environmental claims) was published in March 2024.
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The aim of this strategy is to create a long-term plan to protect nature and reverse the degradation of ecosystems in Europe and worldwide. Regulations on imported products derived from deforestation are part of this plan. The import of certain listed chemical products (e.g. palm oil) will be prohibited without sufficient traceability to exclude any link with deforestation.
“Fit for 55” has been given a great deal of prominence, as it concerns all sectors of activity. The goal is to reduce greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by 55% by 2055. It directly concerns the transport and construction sectors, as well as energy-intensive industries. However, as for all industrial sectors, the “Fit for 55” could have a financial impact on the transportation of cosmetic products or their raw materials, and should encourage cosmetics manufacturers to optimize the energy efficiency of their production sites.
In conclusion, cosmetics manufacturers need to improve their traceability processes, both in the supply chain and at product life-cycle level, by analyzing the fate of substances used to limit their appearance in wastewater and their environmental impact. On the other hand, they are also encouraged to communicate more transparently about their products, such as the origin of their raw materials or the details of their environmental claims.
It should be noted that cosmetics manufacturers are used to adapting to changing regulations on the use of chemical substances, and to finding more environmentally-friendly alternatives. However, with the Green Deal, regulatory changes are cross-cutting, and the EU is showing its willingness to change consumption patterns. So, although the implementation of the more global REACH changes has been postponed, it is in the interest of manufacturers to anticipate, and to sign up to an eco-design and carbon footprint reduction approach, if this is not already the case. With expertise in both strategy and innovation in the cosmetics and energy sectors, Alcimed’s teams help manufacturers investigate the solutions of the future. Don’t hesitate to contact us!
About the author,
Agathe, Consultant with Alcimed’s Cosmetics & Luxury team in France
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